Tarping for Flatbed Drivers: Techniques, Pay, and Safety
Tarping wrong costs you time, money, or a fall off the trailer. Here's how long it really takes, what to charge, and how experienced flatbedders do it solo.
You're standing next to a load of steel or lumber, it's starting to rain, and you're about to spend the next 45 minutes to an hour alone on top of a trailer wrestling a tarp that weighs more than you'd like to admit. Tarping is the part of flatbed work nobody warns you about before they get into open deck — the time it eats, the physical toll, and the fall risk. Done right, it's routine. Done wrong, it's the most dangerous ten minutes of a flatbed driver's day.
What makes tarping harder to plan for than almost any other part of flatbed work is how much it varies load to load. A dry, calm afternoon with a rectangular steel load and a tarp cart is nothing like a windy evening with an irregular machinery load and no tarp cart in sight. Drivers new to open deck consistently underestimate this variability — and underestimate how much it should factor into what they charge and how they schedule their day.
How Long Does Tarping Actually Take?
For an experienced solo driver, tarping a standard flatbed load runs 30–60 minutes depending on the tarp type, load shape, and weather. Steel tarps and lumber tarps on a straightforward rectangular load can go faster; a machinery load with irregular shapes, multiple pieces, or a smoke tarp configuration can push past an hour, especially in wind. Wind is the single biggest time variable — a 20+ mph crosswind turns a 30-minute job into an hour-plus fight, and in genuinely dangerous wind conditions, the right call is to wait it out rather than get pulled off the trailer.
What Tarps Cost and Which Ones You Need
- Steel tarps (16x20, 20x27): roughly $400–$700 each, heavy-duty vinyl-coated for sharp edges and long hauls
- Lumber tarps: roughly $250–$450, lighter material for building materials that don't have the sharp-edge risk of steel
- Smoke tarps / drop tarps: used for machinery and equipment where covering the whole load isn't required, roughly $200–$400
- Bungees, tarp straps, and a tarp cart or roller system: another $150–$300 in setup, but a tarp cart or motorized tarp system materially cuts the physical toll of the job over years of daily use
Most steel-hauling flatbedders carry two to three tarps in rotation, because tarps take damage — grommets tear, material rips on sharp coil edges, and a torn tarp doesn't protect the load or pass inspection. Budget for replacement every 12–24 months of regular use, sooner if you're running steel constantly.
Storage matters more than most drivers give it credit for. A tarp folded and stored wet develops mildew and weakens the material over time, and a tarp thrown loose in a headache rack takes abrasion damage from road vibration that a properly rolled and secured tarp avoids. A tarp cart or a dedicated rack isn't a luxury item — it extends the working life of a $500 tarp by a meaningful margin and saves real money over a few years of daily use.
What Should You Charge for Tarping?
Tarping pay is negotiated separately from linehaul in most flatbed freight and should be. Common structures:
- Flat tarp fee per load: commonly $50–$150 depending on load complexity and region
- Per-tarp charge: $50–$75 per tarp when a load requires two or more
- Built into the rate: some brokers and shippers add a flat accessorial (often listed as a "tarp fee" on the rate confirmation) rather than negotiating it live
Never assume tarping is included in the linehaul rate on a flatbed quote — confirm it explicitly before you accept the load. This is exactly the kind of detail a rate confirmation should spell out, and it connects directly to how flatbed rates get built in the first place; see our breakdown on understanding freight rate per mile for how accessorials factor into what a load actually pays versus the base linehaul number.
Step-by-Step: Tarping a Load Solo
- Stage the tarp on the ground or cart before climbing up — never drag a folded tarp up onto a load and unfold it while standing on top
- Pull the tarp over from one side using a rope or the tarp's own straps to guide it rather than walking it across the top of the load
- Center it before securing any corner — a tarp pulled tight on one corner first will bind and be nearly impossible to adjust
- Secure corners first, then work the sides with bungees or tarp straps at even intervals, typically every 18–24 inches
- Check for flapping points — any loose section will tear at highway speed within the first 50 miles
- Do the 50-mile re-check along with your securement check — tarps loosen exactly like straps do as a load settles
Steel Tarps vs. Lumber Tarps vs. Machinery Tarps
Steel coil and pipe loads need heavy vinyl-coated tarps rated to resist punctures from sharp edges — a lighter tarp will tear within the first few hundred miles on steel. Lumber and building materials can use lighter-weight tarps since the load is generally softer-edged, though corner protection still matters. Machinery often uses a smoke tarp or drop tarp that covers only the equipment itself rather than the whole flatbed, since full coverage isn't always required or practical on odd-shaped loads. Know which tarp type a load needs before you accept it — showing up with the wrong tarp means a wasted trip to a truck stop or a shipper who won't release the load.
Mismatched tarp weight is one of the most common preventable delays on flatbed freight. A driver who shows up to a coil pickup with a lightweight lumber tarp either has to source a heavier one on short notice or risk the shipper refusing to release the load until proper coverage is confirmed. Confirming tarp requirements with the shipper or your dispatcher at the time you accept the load — not when you arrive to pick it up — avoids this entirely.
Fall Safety: The Real Risk of the Job
Falls from the trailer bed are the leading cause of serious tarping injuries, and they happen most often in wet or icy conditions, in high wind, or when a driver rushes to beat a detention clock. Basic precautions that actually prevent falls:
- Use a tarping ladder or platform rather than climbing on the load itself
- Never walk backward while pulling a tarp
- Wear boots with real tread, not worn-smooth soles
- In wind over roughly 25–30 mph, wait it out rather than force it — a delayed load is recoverable, a fall from 10–13 feet is not
- Keep three points of contact when moving across the load
Fatigue plays a bigger role in tarping injuries than most drivers acknowledge. The last tarp of a long day, after hours behind the wheel, is exactly when attention lapses and shortcuts start to look reasonable. If a load can be tarped in the morning instead of after a full driving shift, that's usually the safer call, even if it means adjusting your schedule slightly.
When Should the Detention Clock Start?
Tarping time at a shipper's facility is a gray area many drivers give away for free. If a shipper requires you to tarp on-site before you can leave — rather than at a nearby lot — and that time pushes you past the facility's free time allowance, it should count toward detention. Document your arrival time, when loading finished, and when tarping finished, because that timestamp gap is exactly what supports a detention claim. If you're not sure how to build that case or get a broker to actually pay it, our guide on detention pay and how to collect it walks through the documentation and the ask.
Tarping is a skill that gets faster and safer with repetition, but the freight still has to be worth the time it takes. Get dispatched with TRUCC and let a dispatcher who understands flatbed accessorials make sure tarp fees and detention are built into your rate before you ever climb up with a tarp.
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